Choosing A Puppy
By Carol Clark 2019
Those big, liquid eyes.
Ah, that strokable soft fur.
The squidgy cuddliness of that bundle of fluff.
No wonder you want a puppy.
BUT…
Does everyone in the family buy into the idea? If not, it can cause considerable family friction and stress.
Have you weighed up the financial implications? The rising cost of vet bills, insurance, food and equipment can be a considerable burden.
Do you really have the time for a dog? Twice daily walks, play and training are essential, whatever the weather and no matter how busy otherwise you are.
Owning a dog is a lifetime commitment and should never be taken lightly.
You still want to go ahead? Here are some pointers to help you.
Choose the breed you want carefully
Take into consideration your lifestyle, health, age, and overall time constraints.
If you live in a flat and have limited time, getting a Border Collie or Springer Spaniel would be madness, and would most probably lead to serious behavioural difficulties. Not only for the dog…
If you love 6 hour treks clambering round mountains at weekends, then small companion dogs like Chihuahuas, or Bichon Frises or Lhasa Apsos are not the breeds for you.
If you dislike grooming, then a Bearded collie, Afghan hound or Komondor would be an heavy burden.
Read up about the breeds you like. Ask other owners about the pros and cons. Borrow one for a weekend.
Follow these rules - There are four fundamental rules to follow when looking for and buying a puppy.KEY POINT:
Watch our Pre-Puppy Purchase webinar and read the handouts. You can find it here: Pre-Puppy Purchase Seminar
Rule 1.
Never, ever buy a puppy from anywhere or anyone without being able to see at least one (or preferably both) parents.All good breeders will be very happy for you to see the mother and the father, if he's around - and these adult dogs should be friendly and look happy.
The seller’s property may not be a farm, but have kennels that are clear, airy, and bright and, on the face of it, it looks like a professional establishment. But if you can’t meet at least one parent, or there are several different breeds of pups there, then don’t even consider buying a puppy.
Take any excuses with a pinch of salt. The excuses most often used are: the mother’s ill or not available, or she’s at friends, or they’re selling a pup for someone else. Any excuse like these should raise red flags – the puppy is probably from a puppy farm.
Run away.
Quickly.
Rule 2.
Never buy on impulse or because you feel sorry for a frightened and timid puppy.Puppies can be born to be fearful – but only because the breeder has not thought carefully about how they matched the prospective parents. Fearful bitches should not be bred from as they are highly likely to produce fearful, timid pups.
Good breeders take great care about breeding for temperament as well as looks and help their puppies develop into confident, inquisitive, friendly dogs. But poor breeding and especially poor upbringing in those crucial early weeks (as in all puppy farms) can result in a timid, frightened pup.
Puppies from puppy farms generally have major problems throughout their lives. They often suffer from preventable health problems, and you'll be fighting against the poor genetics, poor temperament and poor start they get for their whole, often short, lives.
Rule 3.
Don't automatically believe that your dog is a pedigree.Just because the breeder supplies a certificate, especially if parents can't be seen, it may not be worth the paper it's printed on. There's quite an industry now producing forged pedigrees, especially for dogs imported from abroad.
Equally, don't automatically think that if you find a breeder listed by a breed club or the Kennel Club that those dogs and breeders have all been personally checked or vetted by that organisation. This isn't the case – they don't have the resources to check them all.
Look for a Kennel Club Assured Breeder. These breeders are properly checked and registered and that'll give you the best chance of finding a well-brought up puppy with a sound temperament.
Rule 4.
Don't pick the puppy that bounds up to you and pushes all the others out the way to get to you.Unless you are an experienced handler/dog owner, of course, and want that sort of pup. These dogs can be too much for the average owner. Don't go to the other end of the scale either and pick the runt or the frightened one because you feel sorry for it. You're far better off picking a pup from the middle ranks.
A good breeder will be able to advise you on which pup would be best for you. The best breeders will quiz you thoroughly before letting you have one of their pups!
Alternatively you can employ a behaviourist or specialist who can assess the pups using specialised puppy assessment tests. Just ask me.
Other Things To Do
Make sure you handle the puppies. If they become distressed or shy away this could mean that they've not been properly handled and socialised. Properly socialised puppies mean happy well-balanced dogs in maturity.Check the appearance of the mother and puppies. Do they appear healthy; eyes clear and bright, free of any discharge? Are their coats shiny? If possible, get confirmation of the eye and hip scores of both the mother and the father. If the breeder allows you, always stroke and fuss the parents, check their temperament, look for signs of aggression, fearfulness, nervousness, barking, or "neurotic" symptoms such as chewing feet, tail, skin damage, or pacing.
The mother's temperament is particularly important, as it's the mother that shapes the behavioural future of the offspring.
KEY POINT:
If you have any reservations, don't buy a puppy
Taking Your Puppy Home
If possible, try to visit the puppies at least twice, at 4/5 weeks and again when you pick up your pup. The best age to take the puppy home is 7-8 weeks, though some breeders will prefer to keep the pups a while longer.It can help to leave a small blanket or towel with the breeder at the first visit, so that it gets the mother and the litter smell on it, which should provide some comfort for your pup in the first week or so at home.
Before bringing your new puppy home, make sure your garden is safe and secure. Purchase a collar, lead, bowls, and dog tag (with address and telephone number), crate, toys and food toys. If you become a Down Dog Devotee you'll get a Down Dog Digest on exactly that subject to help you prepare properly for your new puppy.
Check with the breeder what they are feeding the pups: a good breeder will supply you with some food and give you a feeding chart.
Find a good Vet in your area. Ask other owners if you're not sure who to choose.
When you pick up your pup, take a crate, indoor kennel or a cardboard box with you and line it with newspaper. Take spare newspaper with you as the pup may be sick and will almost certainly pee and poo on the journey, especially if it's any distance.
When you get home, place the bed or crate near somewhere warm. If you're using a crate, cover it with a blanket or sheet to make it more den-like. Introduce the puppy to the crate gradually and positively.
It can help to have a loud ticking clock near the bed or crate and/or have a radio on in another room tuned into a talk station.
You can also put in a hot water bottle; this will mimic the heat from the mother and siblings over the first few nights. Make sure it is well covered or you may get a very wet bed/crate!
Your new puppy will need lots of sleep, just like a human baby, so make sure he gets lots of rest. Prevent your children pestering the puppy. Don't allow any rough handling by children (or adults), but do give your pup plenty of gentle handling and cuddles.KEY POINT:
Buy my book, Pesky Puppy to Perfect Pet, to find out how to introduce your pup to a crate along with loads more information about how to raise a great family pet.